Anet Official Store Warranty】We provide a 6-month warranty on the printer (nozzle and build plate sheet excluded) and lifetime technical support with fast response in customer service. Go into the menu Control/Motion (and Esteps if needed) and scroll down to get the E step value. (Probably 100 or close.) We will say 100. But nothing happened other that there was a shorting current of about 0.5 Amp. And none of the leds worked showing a working ATMega controller. So I started to measure the resistance on the inputs which was about 35 ohms. So was this resistance on the in- and output of Q4 which is a 7805 regulator. And on a good board this should be very high! And also on R25 and resistor R12. First the 5V regulator was suspected but turned out being okay, and neither was the AM1117 3.3V regulator defect. And although the resistance of the AM1117 between pins 1 and 3 measured also a low value, it was not causing any problem here as I found out later on. And also on Fan 2 connector pins it measured 35 ohm. Feel free to leave a link, but it would be good if you can elaborate in which way particular upgrade helped you make better prints or secured your printer. When uploading firmware, use Sketch->Upload (Ctrl+U), which uploads over the USB connection, not Sketch->Upload Using Programmer (unless you're actually using an Arduino programmer and know what you're doing). Burning the Bootloader

Here, it is pertinent to note that A8 users, who are interested in printing with different materials that require very high temperatures, will need to tweak this kit a bit. If you are an ardent DIY fan, the Titan extruder would be the very best place to start customizing your kit.Since I moved to printing on a Anet A8 glass bed, I decided to permanently modify my heat bed. I really hate the way the bed has to be adjusted with a screw. So by printing wingnuts, you can modify it permanently. It’s much easier and faster. Furthermore, this adjustment allows me to use the full width of the glass bed 220 x 220, since I no longer need access to the screws.

Previous photo shows the still defect mainboard after I already removed the defect X-motor driver controller. You should consider covering your power supply with a 3D printable upgrade. It will cover most of your power supply to make it more safe and secure. Apart from that, it will also help in eliminating any messy wires by placing them in the same place. It also has an opening for the power switch upgrade in case you get that, too. It is available at Thingiverse here. 9. Electronics Case

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Due to its popularity a whole lot of clones have popped up in the market, However, it is actually quite debatable if these low cost and low-quality replicas will be able to perform in comparison to the real thing. Regardless of whichever route you choose, you can rest assured that the new V6 hot end is an absolute must-have A8 upgrade. One that has the potential to take your A8 to the next level.

As far as working is concerned, we would say that it is best to use this as a precision extruder. If you want precise designs then this will yield some really good results. With A3d every other extruder will work, but since you have already got the printer for cheap, it is worth investing in this extruder to get the best value to performance factor. If you don’t want to compromise on the performance, then this is a recommended choice. Anet A8 Belt Upgrade 3D Printing GT2 Timing Belt The MOS tube makes the working better as it cools down through the MOS tubes which gives an overall better performance. The power supply chip supports the 12 v power input with voltage correction that eliminates the heating problem during the voltage conversion. It can be directly connected to the 2004 LCD C panel after removing the L type board adapter. Anet A8 Printable Upgrades A8 MOSFET upgrade Here are two heated bed upgrades to print. The second one should be printed only if you’re using a full-size glass. For your printer to work properly, it is very important that the machine should have enough tension on both the X and Y axis to make sure that the unit’s belts always stay tight. I spent a lot of time with the calibration guides provided with the printer, changing extrusion speed/distance, printer temperature, movement acceleration, and so forth, but I only ever seemed to improve the print quality a little. Well, until I had a go at updating the firmware that is. Then, with absolutely no changes to the gcode between print 3 and print 4 (and a different dye in the filament) I managed to get a significant improvement!You can also learn a whole lot more just simply by searching through forums such as Thingiverse and other web-based online 3D printer resources. Just make sure that the relevant fields are marked and ask them to leave a reply. This will be done if you have published the required fields. The MOSFET will help prevent the motherboard from potentially overheating and taking on too much pressure. This Anet A8 mod is said to reduce fire risk, and also provide better voltage to the motors. So, I recommend that print out the ergonomic button. It takes no more than 20-25 minutes depending on your printing speed. Your thumb won’t hurt anymore. Try it out, thank me later. A8 No products found. As you can see, printed or bought, there are plenty of modification which will help you improve Anet A8. Once again the community behind this printer is enormous and the upgrades are evolving each day. Each and every day someone from the community prints something new designs something new. The list is not definite. It is ongoing and I’ll try to keep it updated whenever I discover something better then what I already had. What is your favorite Anet A8 upgrade? Since this is quite a controversial topic, I’ll just list the things people use to improve their heat-bed adhesion. Currently I print with PLA on a yellow painters tape and have no problem with it, but I plan to try BuildTak and glass very soon.

The stability of the frame is an issue with the Anet A8. However, you can easily get rid of this issue by 3D printing your very own front and rear frame brace. Once done, you will be able to make sure that your machine will run smoother and there would be less wobble of the axis. Make sure it is the bugfix-1.1.x version as this is the most up to date version of the 1.1 firmware. It should look like this. Burning the bootloader to the board requires either an Arduino programmed as an ISP, or a USBasp. The programmer is connected to the middle six pins of the J3 connector on the Anet v1.0 board. There are however a few points to take into consideration whenever you decide to go shopping for an auto-level sensor. Not all sensors are built alike and nor do they cost the same as well For instance, Some of them, such as the BL Touch, for example, are considerably more expensive than plenty of other options.I tried open software Marlin but got an Arduino (I used new Windows version 1.8.10) library error, which stopped my upgrading effort. But main thing is that now there is a second working mainboard just in case the installed working board quits in the future, and using this extra board to test with is very handy.