For the ridged sections between any carapace plates, basecoat with Xereus Purple and shade with Druchii Violet With the release of Maloghurst just around the corner, and a potential large Heresy box-set coming out with plenty of Mk VI and Cataphractii, part of me is looking to re-starting a XVIth Legion force. Cult of the Warmason by CL Werner is primarily about the Sisters of Battle going up against a Genestealer Cults infestation on the shrine world of Lubentina.

Moss: Create several shades of greening by combining two layers of Creed Camo, Munitorum Greem, and/or Coelia Greenshade Space Wolves – A loyalist Space Marine army in the Warhammer 40K universe, and their color scheme often features deep greens and blues. Lupercal Green would be a great choice for painting the armor, weapons, and other details on Space Wolves miniatures, helping to bring out the fierce, predatory nature of the Space Wolves and their legendary leader, Leman Russ. I painted Horus’ face shortly after the Warhammer+ video on painting Caucasian skin debuted, and that informed my thinking as to how to paint Horus. http://www.ttfxmedia.com/vallejo/cgi-bin/_modelis_info.asp?p1=ing&p2=modelcolor&p3=1#modelcolorinfo I originally painted this at the same time as my Ynnari force, so I used the same red armour mix of 50% Word Bearers Red and 50% Mephiston Red, highlighted with Evil Sunz Scarlet. The stone skin was all dry brushed with various grey tones (Skavenblight Dinge, Dawnstone, Administratum Grey), as I didn’t want it to overwhelm the copper hidden underneath.http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?s=c770bc029dd218be5d17fff14fecefeb&showtopic=17678&st=0&p=266494&#entry266494 At this point, I attached both arms to the main body. This would make it easier to paint the weapons.

Coat D'Arms match the OLD citadel colours (pre-1992) so there might be some difference. Shining gold has the most noticeable difference, I basecoated Horus’ head with two thin layers of Reaper Kobold Scale, but any reddish-brown will work. I then painted the recesses under the eyes/nose and mouth with Gal Vorbak Red. Gal Vorbak Red is a purple/red, and works well as a shadow color to the reddish-brown of Kobold Scale. Then, I did two glazes of Bugman’s glow. The first glaze was painted all over. The second glaze layer was painted just on the raised areas, leaving the GV Red and Kobold Scale just in the recesses. From there, I slowly layered up to Cadian Fleshtone, and then a blend of Cadian Fleshtone and Pallid Witch Flesh for the most prominent areas of his head. For additional weathering on vehicles, apply a coat of matt varnish all over the model, then once dry, thin down Raw Umber oil paint with mineral spirit, wash into the recesses, then very carefully wipe away any excess with a cotton bud dipped in mineral spirit. You have to be extremely careful with this part, if you rub too excessively, you run the risk of wearing away the paint underneath. Basecoat with thin layers of this colour, taking care not to build up so much paint that the details are obscured. Slow and steady wins the race! Whether you’re looking to add a touch of regal flair to your tabletop army or just want to bring your models to life, the Lupercal Green paint is sure to make an impact. What armies to paint with Lupercal Green?Flesh Tearers Red: This bold, fiery red paint would provide a dramatic contrast to the cool tones of Lupercal Green, creating a look that is energetic and exciting. Lupercal Green can help you recreate the Sons of Horus Space Marines if you fancy playing a pre-heresy army, but otherwise you can use the green hue for any other Space Marine,

GW's new range matches with the old range are the matches claimed by GW. However, many of the paints do not match very closely at all and some mixing will be required to get close to the original colours. If you are trying to match old GW with new GW, you'd be better just getting Vallejo game color or coat d'arms for the closest match ) Vuković, Krešimir (10 November 2017). "The Topography of the Lupercalia". Papers of the British School at Rome. 86: 37–60. doi: 10.1017/S0068246217000381. For the human skin highlight the colours are basically just moving left to right from darkest to lightest of this trio of paints. The darker skin is a couple of thin coats of Knight-Questor, then for the last highlight mixing in a touch of Cadian. The medium skin tone started with Cadian followed by mixing in a bit of Kislev for the final highlight of the medium tone. Then I reused that Cadian/Kislev mix for the initial highlight of the lightest tone that was then finished off with kislev. The hybrid skin is a couple of thin coats of Ushabti over the base coat, you can push it a touch further with screaming skull if you want. To get river/lake looking shiny I just kinda pour some gloss varnish from the bottle on, you will want a paper clip or something to poke any bubbles. The penultimate step is painting the rims with your choice of paint, in this case I used dryad to match my Tyranids. The last model thing the models need is to throw on some tufts, I like using these ones from Gamers Grass: Blue/Grey Cloth: – Base with Dark Reaper. – Wash with Coelia Greenshade. – Highlight with Dark Reaper. – Edge Highlight with Thunderhawk Blue.Most P3 Paints do not match closely with the old GW range, but a detailed explanation of each paint can be found here: http://www.brushthralls.com/pre-painting-prep/color-theory-10p3.html